Saturday, January 23, 2016

Ottobre 4/2007 #29 Corduroy Pants/Jeans

Here's some pants I made for ds#1. They were made in size 122cm with 5/8" seam allowance added. I believe I added a few 2-3" to the length so that I can lengthen them when the time comes as ds#1 is growing like a weed. The only thing I messed up on was the pocket (which I should have made 1/4" seam allowance as the 5/8" sa is to high and as a result he can't actually use the pockets. I realized after I had sewed the side seams this and at that point I wasn't willing to seam rip to fix my mistake.


Here's a more unclose view of the the pocket detailing. The front leg portion has a 3 piece pattern split around the knee. I really do like the look of it especially with the corduroy as the lines add dimension to the finished pants. However its not the easiest pattern especially for a beginner. 




The above photo shows the beautiful topstitching of the pants that gives it a more RTW look and feel.  I used my snap press dk-98 Kam press to add the nipple rivets to. I purchased the rivets from Dot Gas which is a wholesale supplier that sells to the general public. They're prices aren't that amazing but I ran into limited options for nipple rivet dies. I live in Canada and as such shipping costs are insanely high from the US to Canada. So I purchased the dot gas adapter so my snap press can use industrial dies and then that way I can use industrial die sets in the future. The clear plastic box houses the adapter piece and the industrial die set for the dk-98 press. In future, I hope that the Grommet Mart nipple rivets will work with my press. I didn't want to have to buy another press and the dies from Grommet Mart are insanely overpriced not to mention the cost of shipping would have been  about equal to what I purchased for the adapter and rivets anyways.

I also purchased some more dies to my dk-98 from Kam Snaps. I actually originally purchased my press from them. I'm not that happy though that they are discontinuing the metal dies for the press hence the reason I purchased so many at once. I purchased the 7mm grommet die, Utility spring #20, and fashion spring #20. They are good quality dies and I do like my press just really upset with their business practice of discontinuing the dies for the machines that they carry. The good thing I learned through it all is that once you buy the die sets you can usually find the hardware for them to fit. They were out of stock on the #20 fashion spring hardware so i purchased the die and looked on ebay to find something that fit. I purchased the hardware from this guy on ebay, the price was cheap enough to see if they worked and they did plus the shipping doesn't kill you to Canada.

I have stummbled across another company that sell hardware/presses and lots more of it than Kam snaps. Goldstartool  also carries snap presses. Their die sets are cheaper and looks quite similar to the dk-93 kam snap press. It's dies are screw in not flat shank so I'd have to purchase the press. I'm seriously considering purchasing their machine and corresponding die sets as they carry a wide assortment of hardware. I can't believe the rollarcoster I've had for one machine that does it all. Sadly I don't think there's such thing especially when I still have to take into consideration the cost of the dies/hardware and their shipping costs. I don't regret buying my Kam snap press as I still have the ability to buy wholesale industrial die sets and their corresponding hardware.


I also modified the pattern to add an adjustable waistband just like in RTW kids clothing. Below is a photo to show you what I mean. I also didn't have any button hole elastic on hand so I used knitted elastic and just slit some openings in it. I then hemmed the pants using my blind hemmer (industrial machine) so that I can easily lengthen them when ds#1 grows.

Bob Bermudas - design change

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